Nerone Italy Guide

Restaurant 3DC GRADI (thirteen degrees), VITERBO (Lazio) Italy

2009-10-16T13:44:00.011+01:00

The first time I sat at a table of Tredici Gradi I said: "please just tell me if something is not fresh as I don't want to feel sick"; waiter said: "everything here is fresh, you can believe me. Just try it."

I am always a little sceptical when I go to a new place. So, since I know how to cook, I start with ordering the simplest of the dishes. Something I would know how to make. Something I would know what it should taste like.

So I did it. I've tried... and tried, and tried, and tried. Now that I have tried it many and many times I can honestly say this is one of my top favorite restaurants. One of the most genuine I know.

I have never met the chef, I have heard is a lady. She comes mid morning and sees what the shop owner was able to find, fresh, both at the market and from the nearby farms and fisherman. Then, she, the chef, makes what she feels like from what she has available.

Some of the dishes are among the most traditional within Italian homes. Nothing too fancy, but definitely authentic. I am thinking of the stuffed zucchini, the tomatoes stuffed with rise, the veal slice (fettina) dumped in egg and crummed bread and fried, the "gnocchi" served with pumpking sauce, the bean soup, the Summer dish made of old bread seasoned with tomatos, onions and olive oil called "panzanella"... and many other delicious and simple recipes. Not to mention the great selection of salami and cheeses! and the prosciutto, or the hot chili pepperes stuffed with tuna and capers! Or the traditional soup dishes of this area such as the "Acquacotta" or the soup of "ceci" beans & chustnuts! (ceci e castagne)

Maybe you have already an idea of the reason why this place has the name "Tredici Gradi" (Thirtheen Degrees). "Thirteen" seems to be the optimal content of alcohool in a wine, so the name reveals that wine plays a great role in here. Indeed, Tredici Gradi is a wine-restaurant! There is an absolutely great selection of wines here. And the nice thing is that you can ask for literally ANY wine without having to buy the bottle!! You can have your meal and drink the wines you prefer by buying them at the glass!

Differrently from other places that serve wines at the glass, here you can experience all the wines you want without necesarily having to choose among those that are already open and serving. So, you can combine the food and the wine/s as you like.

It is courtesy, however, to check what wine has already been opened so to limit the waste. But if among those that have been opened there is not the one you want, then just go ahead and enjoy your choice of wine, and food.

I would recommend this place to anyone wanting to experience Italian and local Viterbese traditional cuisine, fine wines, nice atmosphere, clean, friendly and professional people, and be charged very honestly and reasonably for it all.

Moreover, there is a younger lady who has a great passion for making cakes! She is an amazing baker! and make sure you try her cakes and mostly her cookies! She makes very delicious cookies. Try those at the end of your meal with a sweet wine or black coffee.

So, I say just what the waiter said to me the first time I was there: "Try it!"
And buon appetito!

3DC GRADI is located in Viterbo, Via Cardinal La Fontaine 28/corner Piazza Don Mario Gargiuli 11; tel. 0761.305596.

One day in Florence looking for the "real" city

2009-04-09T17:21:00.012+01:00

Arriving in Florence by train. The EuroStar and the FrecciaRossa trains provide a fast and comfortable connection to Florence from Naples, Rome, Bologna and Venice. Approacing the train station, Santa Maria Novella, Brunelleschi's dome appears.
I am meeting with a friend for lunch and we have a nice visit, then he suggests we go visit the current exhibition on the History of Astronomy which has been set up to celebrate Galileo's observations into the Solar System. The exhibit is huge and the objects on show and the installations are very beautiful, interesting and illuminating! (indeed I finally understand the graphic of apparent movement of planets which has always been a mistery for me)

After wondering for a while in the most popular area (it's incredible the number of people that crowd the downtown during the day!) I am looking for presents to give to the children of a friend of mine who I'll be meeting in the evening.

That is when I realize how difficult it is to get away from the tourist area. Around me only souvenir's shops, leather shops, gelato shops, pizza shops, pottery shops. So I need to venture further away.

I finally make a "right" turn and I find myself on Via dei Servi. Finally the place I was looking for.

First of all, this is not too far from the center (it is actually still in the center of the city, a few blocks away from Piazza della Signoria!) You can see important landmarks at each end of the street: Brunelleschi's dome on one end, and at the other end Giambologna's equestrian bronze of Ferdinando I de' Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, on Piazza della Santissima Annunziata. So the perspective is unique!

[in the above picture the perspective of Via dei Servi from Piazza della Santissima Annunziata looking towards Brunelleschi's dome of St. Maria del Fiore]

Secondly, the variety of shops is Great! There is probably the most authentique ice-cream shop of Florence, definitely top quality gelato, a very nice Kebab restaurant, excellent Sushi-bar (also take away), book-shops, home tools and an art-store where I found very good quality sculpting tools (chesels and rasps) at very reasonable price! So I can finally put my hands on that piece of Italian Alabaster I was given a couple of years ago when visiting Volterra.

Lastly, on Via dei Servi you can find a permanent exhibition of wooden models of Leonardo's projects and machines! This exhibition is a great place to take your children to as they are allowed to play with and explore them!

I took some pictures of Florence yesterday, you can view them at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/scaggia.nerone.cc/Florence?feat=directlink
(copy and paste the above link in your browser)

2009-04-07T15:34:00.005+01:00

Earthquake in Abruzzo, Italy

HOW TO HELP

NOT MONEY: for offers of other kind of help than donation of money you can call the PROTEZIONE CIVILE DI ROMA at the number: +39 06 68201

You can tell the operator the nature of the help you can offer and your name will be added to a specific list accordingly (lodging, professional assistance, provisions, etc...)

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DONATIONS: The Italian-American Museum is collecting donations to support the emerging relief effort in Italy. For information and donations call the museum at (212) 965-9000.

Also the National Italian American Foundation (NIAF) has set up a relief fund. Contact them directly for details.

IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER NOTE: we did not check how the Italian-American Museum and the National Italian American Foundation (NIAF) have organized the funds for help. We invite you to check directly with them how they intend to operate. Nerone Tours has no connections with these two organizations nor we are involved in any way with the collecting and managing of funds.

One "Shadow" of Wine (Un Ombra di Vino)

2009-04-02T21:54:00.007+01:00

When in Rome do as the Romans do.. when in Venice, do as the Venetians do.
Just returned from a beautiful visit to Venice and, believe it or not, this time I did not had a chance to see the famous Piazza San Marco. I was there three days, staying at a little Pensione (Inn/Locanda) in one of the most charming areas of Venice: Castello. The Pensione (Locanda Santi Giovanni e Paolo) is located behind San Marco in a position that is between the popular Venice and the most quiet and typical Venice, where it's very rare to bump into a tourist.

I have been very busy visiting the city for three full days, walking every day for over eight hours, restless and always enchanted at the beauty of this City.

I was so busy discovering places that were new to me (I had been in Venice twice already) that by the end of my stay I have realized I did not get to see Piazza San Marco! I think I am probably one of the very few people who, visiting Venice as a tourist, missed that!

But what I did not miss at all this time were the many local hosterie, where it's possible to get a glass of wine at any time of the day, and eat bread, cheese, salami, or even a Lasagna in a charming, casual atmosphere, spending nothing more than 4 to 12 euros for a tasty lunch.

One of the things I have learned is that in Venice they call the glass of wine, measuring 100 milliliters (ten glasses of this kind full of wine make a liter), OMBRA. Ombra in Italian means "shade", so one OMBRA DI VINO literally translates "one shade of wine"!

Why one shade?

Well the story is well known but probably still worth been told again.. in the past, I assume until the early 1900, there were wine sellers in Piazza San Marco. Most people know that there is a tall belltower standing on this square. So, in the hot months of the year, the wine sellers in the square set their tables in the shade of the bell tower. As the shade moved around the square during the day, the wine sellers kept moving also, so they would always have their stand in the shade, keeping themselves (and the wine) cool.

That's why the name Shade, for a glass of wine.

At first, being an Italian, I did not feel too comfortable with asking for a shade of wine... but I quickly learned to do so, as I have had quite a few over these three days!

It is VERY hard to tell where to find the places I have visited, as in Venice it's hard to name a landmark in the maze of alleys that is one of the most confusing net of streets I have ever been into. And I got lost everyday! As someone says one thing one MUST do when in Venice is getting lost!

So, better than telling you where these places are, is to tell you how to find these places. To find these places you need to leave the flow of the crowd and venture alone in the side alleys. Don't need to be afraid of that, nor brave, just know that you can easily get lost but you can always find your way back! In other words, you need to make that extra effort and walk a little further off the beaten tracks :)

There are so many places of this kind that no way is the wrong way. It is typical to eat a half hard boiled egg with the wine. Some places make sandwiches with the arabic round type of bread, with cheese and different kind of typical Italian salami and prosciutto. Some places have one special dish for the day, like Lasagna. Some bars have the happy hour in the evening during which you can have one of Venice's most popular drink called the Spritzer (sp?) with a buffet.

Sitting at one of these places, relaxed, eating and drinking, it's one of Venice's best pleasures!

Want to use coaches? go COTRAL!

2009-03-30T00:53:00.003+01:00

Do you want to venture in the heart of Italy by coach? Or even combine trains and coaches? Make sure you bookmark the following websites:
COTRAL (coaches in the Region of Lazio): http://www.cotralspa.it/ENG/linee_orari.asp
FERROVIE DELLO STATO (Italian railways): http://www.ferroviedellostato.it/

Italy: Train tickets: reservation and payments

2009-03-30T00:22:00.003+01:00

The official website of Italian railways can be found at: http://www.ferroviedellostato.it. There you can browse route options and timetable as well as purchase your train ticket! However, payments by credit card are not always successful! You may find yourself struggling with registration, credit card processing and eventually failure.

A new payment option has been recently added to the site: now you can make your train ticket reservation without registering or using your credit card as you will be given the option (once in Italy) to make the payment cash at one of the many shops in Italy that are connected with the SISAL network! (most Tobacco shops)

You can also pay directly at train stations (cash or credit card), or at any ATM of UniCredit bank network (using your credit card)

To complete the payment (at the latest 24h prior time of departure of your train) you will only need the PNR code that is associated with your on-line reservation! At the moment this seems to be the easiest way to go!

A technology that would improve this system would be 2D barcodes that would be read by portable barcode-readers. After purchasing your ticket on-line you would receive the 2D bar-code as image on your cell phone. It would be enough to hand the cell phone to the employee on the train and have your payment verified. Check NeoMedia Technologies company (http://www.neom.com) as they are working on developing this technology that could be applyed to anything! From tickets for concerts, to bus tickets, to shopping and gift certificates... and anything else you can think of! In case you loose your cell phone it would be enough to call the operator to have all of your purchases and money blocked from being spent! The system would transfer your purchases and credit to another SIM card! No more woollett or cash! No more risk of carrying cash as you would be able organize your e-Woollett from a PC or from your smart phone!

MARCH 22ND 2009: THE MARATHON OF ROME

2009-03-21T20:18:00.006+01:00

The Maratona di Roma (Marathon of Rome) is not only a race for athletes with a capital “A”. In fact, as is tradition, the party will be complete with the more than 60,000 protagonists of the Roma Fun Run, the non-competitive 4k (also known as "Stracittadina", as it was called until 2008). More than a race, it is a leisurely walk to which anyone can participate. Classmates, grandparents and grandchildren, parents and children, together with their favourite domestic animal, on skates… well, as every year, the emotion of being there is the main reason for which thousands of people won’t want to miss out. The Stracittadina Fun Run, one of the many races of its kind with one of the highest participation rates in the world, awaits all in the centre of Rome on March, 22nd 2009 (Colosseo, meeting point: 8:00am - start: 9:15am), immediately following the start of the 42,195k Marathon.

FREE transportation (buses, trams, underground) is provided to athletes on March the 22nd. Just wear your bib number! Underground for free from 6am to 8.30 am ("Colosseo" and "Cavour" stations can be used gratis also from 10am to 6pm).

Text from the official site of the Marathon of Rome (Maratona di Roma)

Italian Genius Now!

2009-03-18T03:49:00.006+01:00

This is a great exhibit on Italian creativity that presents 50 years of Italian production in art and design and sees how this has changed in some cases the way of life worldwide (a classic example the Vespa GS 150 created by Corradino d'Ascanio in 1955 for Piaggio)

Italian Genius Now. Back to Rome
Open until April 13th 2009
Macro Future. Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, Roma
Tuesday-Sunday 4PM-Midnight. Closed on Monday
Admission FREE
SEE ABOUT OUR "VESPA TOURS OF ROME!"

Giotto Exhibit at Victor Emmanuel Monument in Rome

2009-03-18T03:17:00.007+01:00

''Giotto e il Trecento. Il più Sovrano Maestro stato in dipintura'' - Giotto and the 14th Century. The Sovraign Master of Painting
This exhibit is dedicated to the Italian painter Giotto who is considered the first of Italian artists. Over 150 works on show witness the influence of Giotto in Italian art of his time. There are 20 masterpieces from Giotto himself - which make this exhibit even more special as these works are seldom moved from their official location due to their delicacy.
Until June 29th
Open Monday to Thursday 9.30AM – 7.30PM
Friday and Saturday 9.30AM – 11.30PM
Sunday 9.30AM – 8.30PM
Admission: Euro 10.00
FOR PRIVATE TOURS OF THE EXHIBIT EMAIL US at nerone.cc@gmail.com

NO MORE LINES AT THE VATICAN!

2007-10-03T00:32:00.000+01:00

It is finally possible to avoid standing in line to enter the Vatican Museums (but also the Colosseum, Uffizi and Accademia Galleries in Florence, and other major museums in Italy.) The cost of pre-purchased ticket it can be almost double of the regular price, but considering the long waits to enter these sites (sometime it can take even two hours!) it is definitely worth it.
If you are booking tours with NERONE TOURS ( http://www.nerone.cc ) and want to avoid standing in line, please let us know and we will do the booking for you! You will receive a voucher that you will need to present to the ticket office employee directly at the site, and will enter with no standing in line.
More information on request, please email to: nerone.cc@gmail.com

Legge Bersani

2007-04-11T15:00:00.000+01:00

LEGGE BERSANI
informazioni

TAKING A SPIN IN NORTHERN LAZIO

2007-02-11T19:44:00.000+01:00

"I look for abandoned empty houses so that I can fill them with my imagination..."
Tonino Guerra.

The countryside of Northern Lazio between Lake Bolsena and the river Tiber is a very charming part of Italy. This area is still out of the major touristic routes even if very close to the popular towns of Orvieto and Todi.

Very small, and often almost abandoned, villages lay on this hilly land like stars in a constellation... and visitors would need passion and a good map to navigate this sky! But around every bend of these charming Italian country roads you can discover a treasure.

It is by chance, during a spin on my own on a very fine Winter day, that I got lost between the rinkles of time and land, and arrived in the towns of Roccalvecce and Celleno at only about 20 minutes drive North of Viterbo.

I think that the feeling I had today, is very close to what a time-traveler would feel when coming out of his time-machine.

I would encourage every traveler to visit this beautiful, and still isolated, part of Italy.

For more information on day trips to Northern Lazio please contact us at nerone@nerone.cc or visit our website: www.nerone.cc (Nerone Made to Measure Tours in Italy)

The pictures are taken in Celleno (in the Province of Viterbo, Northern Lazio)

Ciao "Guardastelle"! the Man that Looks into Deep Sky

2007-02-05T21:36:00.000+01:00

It is totally by chance that I have bumped into Paolo Candy, as I was looking for camera supplies on the web to take pictures of the night sky with my telescope... as it often happens the best encounters happen by total chance, or maybe fate...

In the picture: the telescope and dome of the "Cimini Astronomical Observatory"

My heart jumped when I realized that there was a great Astronomical Observatory in my neighborhood! To visit a real Observatory it had been my dream since I was a little boy. So I dropped Mr. Candy an email asking when I could go visit!

Paolo answered the next morning, a nice cheerful and welcoming reply! Invited me to go on the very same night, 6:30PM, when the sky was the best for deep-sky observation. I could not believe it!

As I arrived he was as friendly as a long time old friend, he made me feel comfortable and welcome and talked to me about stars, sky and optical instruments, as he was navigating the night sky with his telescope.

Paolo Candy has a degree in Astronomy and a great experience as teacher before he started his own project of creating this great Observatory, and a Planetarium (!), about ten years ago. He named his association CI.A.O.! The word CIAO is now world famous, as friendly greeting! No other name would have been more appropriate for Paolo's association! It stands for: "CImini Astronomical Observatory", where Cimini is the name of the mountains on top of which the observatory is built.

He writes books to present Astronomy to the public and help beginners. The Observatory is open for visits during night... and day too! ...when the Sun puts up a great show, on the stage on its own!

The highlights of my visit tonight were three: the wonderful vista of Sirius, brightest than the brightest diamond!; Orion's Nebula as I have never seen it before; and meeting and visiting with Paolo who's kindness, enthusiasm and professionalism go beyond your expectations.

Sergio (left) and Paolo (right) inside of the dome, by the 500mm Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope.

If you are planning a visit to Rome and have time for a day trip, I would suggest the following itinerary: visit the city of Viterbo also known as the City of the Popes with its intact Medieval flavour; then a visit to the Villa Lante in Bagnaia, famous for its beautiful Renaissance gardens; and finally enjoy a visit to Paolo Candy's Astronomical Observatory (before or after dinner) to watch the Sun or explore the Night Sky with a very special guide, Paolo, in the spectacular setting of the Cimini mountains!

To organize your visit you can write to Nerone Made to Measure Tours in Italy. We can provide private guides, transportation and take care of all the aspects of the organization of your trip. For more information write to: nerone@nerone.cc or call US +1 773 661 4142

THE RE-OPENING OF THE DOMUS AUREA

2007-02-05T12:45:00.000+01:00

From this Tuesday, Feb 6th 2007, the Domus Aurea (a portion of Nero's Palace) will re-open to the public for guided visit. The site is still undergoing restorations so the visitors will also be able to see these works in progress. Part of the itinerary includes the Nymphaeum of Ulisses e Polyphemus and the Hall with the Gilded Vault where visitors will be able to have a close look of the frescoes on the ceiling.

The Doums Aurea was closed to the public on Dec 12th, 2005 as its conditions required important restorations.

THE ROMAN CARNIVAL

2007-02-01T02:05:00.000+01:00

ARE YOU READY FOR CARNIVAL? LET'S SEE...

Walking the streets of Rome this month you may notice children dressed in costumes throwing confetti and 'coriandoli' (coloured pieces of paper) of each other; normally you only throw coriandoli at the masks you like. You may meet a lot of them along Via Cola di Rienzo and perhaps wonder what is going on! Well, this is Carneval, a feast which still survives in this form and in many fancy-dress parties. Let's explore the story of this celebration and get some idea about how to enjoy this Carnevale Romano... The month of February, usually so cold and dark, does, however, contain the seeds of spring which soon burst into familiar scents and colours. Just as spring is the beginning of a new cycle, February represents the end of an old one. It was natural that this passage from winter to spring, representing the rebirth of nature, received special attention in a civilization whose economy was based on agriculture and was thus tied to the cycle of the seasons. Some pagan celebrations, with origins lost in the mists of time, continued into Papal Rome. Indeed, it would have been difficult for the Church to rid itself entirely of such deeply-felt ancient rites, so it chose not only to tolerate them, but also to imbue them with a new symbolism. Thus, through this archaic symbolism, those evolved into the Carnevale Romano that can be regarded as a rich aid in the comprehension of man's nature and fears. The Carnevale Romano, in the form described here, continued until about 100 years ago. We'll look for traces of it...

You can find the complete article on www.nerone.cc [ Articles Archive ]

Broccolo Leafs

2007-01-29T14:26:00.000+01:00

The leaves of the Broccolo are usually cut and thrown away in the trash! but they can be the main ingredient for delicious dishes!

Broccolo Leaves with Cherry Tomatoes
Cut the leaves from the broccolo flower and wash them; then cut the leaves in thin long strips and boil them till they soft. Chop thinly one clove of garlic, parsley and cherry tomatoes and put this preparation in a pan with 2 spoons of olive oil. Let it coot 'till it becomes a nice looking sauce, then add the boiled broccolo leaves. Cover with a lid and let it cook for a while until the leaves and the sauce became well amalgamate and solf. While cooking put a pinch of salt and pepper.
Serve warm, and enjoy!

Broccolo Leaves with Red Wine
Cut the leaves from the broccolo and wash them, then cut them in half. Wash and rinse the leaves and put them in a large pan with half glass of water, one clove of garlic and one spoon of good olive oil (you can also prepare the garlic and oil before and let the garlic fry a little to give taste to the oil.) Put the leaves in the pan on medium fire and cover with lid. Let it cook for a while, but as the water evaporates and the cooking becomes dry, add some red wine and continue to cook until the broccolo leaves are soft and cooked. You can mild the taste of wine by mixing it with water. While cooking add salt and pepper as you please. You can also overcook the broccolo leaves until they became a little toasted.
Serve warm or cold as you like, and enjoy!

PS: In both recipes you can add a tiny little piece of chilly pepper to make the dish hot. It would be best to fry the chilly pepper with the garlic when warming up the oil.

Nerone Italian Lessons for Tourists PodCast

2007-01-27T19:45:00.000+01:00

We thought... wouldn't it be fun and useful to teach basic Italian to those people planning a trip to Italy? Yes! it would be great fun! Now with podcasting technology it will also be easy! While we are experimenting and learning about podcasting, please send your suggestions so that we can help you better! We can gear our lessons to tourist necessities. Let us know what you would like to learn about, which are the situations you think you would like to get by using your Italian, which are those grammars you did not quite understand and which are the phrases you think it will be the most useful to know. We'll put together Weekly podcasts for you to listen and get ready for your trip!

MAC users in Rome

2007-01-27T12:34:00.000+01:00

As a computer user I know how important it can be to know where to go for help and assistance when needed and especially when traveling! For all MAC users I recommend the following shop (for purchase) and the connected Customer Service Centre (if you need technical assistance), as they excel in courtesy and competence!

SHOP
Flaminia Computer
Apple Center
Via Flaminia 387
00196 Roma
TEL: +39 06.4543.9818 r.a.
FAX: +39 06.32111. 264
info@flaminiacomputer.it

TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE
Via G. Calderini 54
00196 Roma
TEL: +39 06.4543.8551
assistenza@flaminiacomputer.it

From Piazzale Flaminio (Metro A stop) take the tram #2 (ask to get off as if you were going to the "Auditorium" the new Opera house of Rome - which is also well worth a visit!)

For assistance planning your visit to Italy you can visit our website at: www.nerone.cc

Alternative Shore Itinerary from the Port of Civitavecchia (Rome)

2007-01-23T23:21:00.000+01:00

An alternative itinerary for a day trip from Civitavecchia (the sea port of Rome) when landing by Cruise Ship is a trip to the area of Northern Lazio, north of Lake Vico. The area North of Rome and between Lake Bracciano (Northern Lazio) and the Mount Amiata (Southern Tuscany) offers infinite possibilities for great trips in true Italian countryside. This area is rich of beautiful treasures not yet discovered by mass tourism!
Among the many option possible, here is an itinerary that can be done in one day giving that the ships rests at the dock for approx 12 hours (e.g. 7AM to 7PM.)

Orvieto, Civita di Bagnoregio, Montefiascone, Tuscania.

Itinerary:
Civitavecchia (start)
Orvieto (1h 40min drive)
Bagnoregio (30 min drive)
Montefiascone (15 min drive)
Tuscania (30 min drive)
Civitavecchia (45 min drive) end.

Or vice-versa
total driving time: 3h 40min
approx 6-7 hour to spend at sites

In the picture above: Church of St. Peter (Tuscania)
email us at nerone@nerone.cc for information on this tour

New Opening Hours for the Vatican Museums (y2007)

2007-01-21T14:23:00.000+01:00

New opening hours of the Vatican Museums and Sistine chapel
Schedule for the year 2007
Vatican Museums open at 10:00AM (they used to open to the public at 8:45AM)
You can find the complete calendar for 2007 at:
www.vatican.va
schedule also published on www.nerone.cc (home page)

We think that the best time to go to the Vatican would be at around lunch (1-2PM) but check the closing time!

Wednesday morning may be a good time to go also, since many people will be at St. Peter's square for the weekly appointment with the Pope (Papal Audience)

In the picture above: Room of the Immaculate Conception (Vatican Museums)
email us at nerone@nerone.cc for information on this tour